Puerto Peñasco, (population 26,100) on Sonora’s northwestern Gulf of California coast, is situated in the middle of some of Mexico’s most inhospitable territory – hot, arid and desolate. No matter. About 60 miles (97 km) from the International Border and just 3 hours from Tucson, Arizona, Puerto Peñasco, like much of northern Baja California, attracts legions of weekenders.
This shrimping village – known as Rocky Point to many U.S. visitors – might have ended up an Arizona seaport had it not been for the negotiating skills of the Mexican government. Following the 1846-48 territorial war between Mexico and the United States, ongoing negotiations were conducted to determine the new border. President Antonio López de Santa Anna did not want to give up territory that would separate mainland Mexico from the Baja California peninsula. James Gadsen, a South Carolina railroad promoter, lobbied for a settlement that would give the United States a southern railroad route to the Pacific and a port on the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortés). In 1854, The Gadsen Purchase acquired what is now the southern portions of Arizona and New Mexico for $10 million, but Mexico retained the land bridge to Baja.

The discovery of blue shrimp in waters off Cerro de Peñasco (”rocky point”) established the village. For a time, fresh water had to be hauled from the border town of Sonoita, 60 miles away over a sandy trail (now Mexico Highway 8). The route was paved during World War II to provide a potential backup for U.S. West Coast shipping interests, then feared under attack by the Japanese. Puerto Peñasco’s shrimping industry took hold in the 1950s, and the town later benefited from its easy access to North American visitors.

Although future resort development is a possibility, Puerto Peñasco remains for now a leisurely sun, fun and fishing destination for RVers and campers. An extreme range between low and high tide, which can be more than 20 feet, characterizes the local waters. This phenomenon also occurs at San Felipe on the Baja peninsula side of the gulf. About 30 miles (48 km) north of Puerto Peñasco Mex. 8 passes near the crater-strewn landscape of Pinacate Desert National Park; the park entrance is off of Mexico Highway 2, west of Sonoita.

My Take

Puerto Peñasco or Rocky Point as it is known to most “gringos” north of the border had eluded me for several years, especially since I was only four hours from this small but growing beach town. Family living in the Phoenix area had always made several treks per year to enjoy some sun and “Pollo con Mole” and on more than one occasion made formal invitations to join them but always declined for one reason or another.

Then on the last weekend in September, I decide that I had to check out what this little Mexican town was la about.

The drive from Phoenix was roughly 4 hours mainly because we obeyed the speed limit – we didn’t want any altercations with the border patrol or highway police in the area. The border and the few towns near the border are full of insurance agencies selling Mexican Insurance. You definitely want to buy some insurance; in fact it is the law that you must carry insurance while in Mexico. Makes sense to get the basic coverage and perhaps a little bit more, if you can afford it.

Upon crossing from the US side, you instantly realize that “we were not in Kansas anymore.” Once we cross the border, there is a one hour stretch to Puerto Peñasco. You want to beware of the poorly posted traffic laws and the endless stray dogs.

Arriving into Puerto Peñasco, again your remanded that this is Mexico, streets are not paved with the exception of the main drags into town and towards the new developments going up on the beach.

Beachfront condominium rates range from $120 per night all the way to $1500 for some really plush pads worthy of any celeb or high roller. We chose to stay at La Princesa, which is right on the beach. Our stay cost us $179 bucks but since we went as a group of four, we ended up paying just over $45 per person. The staff was very courteous and prompt, the rooms were top notch. For a minute I forgot that I was not in the US enjoying the many comforts like hot water, cable TV, and typical American staples in the pantry.

After settling in, we decide to take a ride into town to enjoy some authentic food. The Malecon as is known, which typically is the boardwalk, was replete with shops vying for your dollars. It doesn’t matter if you need it or not, most likely you will not escape some local selling you a bracelet, hat, or $5 sunglasses. It’s part of the experience, really. Once we made it past the many shops, we found a nice little place right at the end of the Malecon. We were seated on the second floor where we could overlook the entire beach area, an amazing site to behold and well worth it whether the food was good or not. To our luck, the food was great. Most eateries along the Malecon are pretty good; however, always use some common sense when trying certain foods that you might not be used to back at home.

Returning to the condo in the early evening we found that the tide had gone out. This was an interesting sight, which invited us to do some exploring close to 100 yards from where the water line had been all day.

The following day we made it back out to the beach for some sun and fun. There is no shortage of stuff to do if you are active. The locals are quick to offer banana boat rides for $5 bucks per person. Jet skis are also available for about $50 per hour. Beware though with some units as they are very rough and maintained even worse. Para gliders are also available if you dare. As with all water sports, always demand life jackets and use some common sense. If you have been enjoying too many alcoholic drinks, it’s best to watch and wait till you are 100%.
The trip back was inevitable, no one in the group wanted to leave this fun little beach town. The afternoon was sunny and the trip back through the desert was quick and uneventful.

I highly recommend this small Mexican beach town. Condo prices are still affordable but with the impending construction of a main highway straight from the southern California are, this hidden gem will not stay hidden for too long, and affordability will say “hasta la vista, baby.”